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Thursday, June 17, 2010

GAP Tour (days 11-15)

June 2: Today we got lovely egg & bacon sandwiches, juice and fruit for breakfast before heading out for Durban. A short delay fixing the Pumba, just in case we need to reverse at some point, and we were on our way. Nothing a hammer won't fix!

[the mechanics]

Once we arrived in Durban, we headed straight to the beach, where we took a bit of a beating by the waves, with the steep shore and strong undertow, it was a bit scary at times, but we all survived with only a few scrapes. The view of Durban and Moses Mabhida Stadium at the far end of the beach was magnificent!

[Moses Mabhida Stadium; Victoria being taught a lesson by mother nature]

We met the new travelers, 3 more Americans, French Aussie and Irish(?). The going away dinner was fun but VERY sad to see our friends go.

[waiving farewell to Adam, James, Rob, Claudette, Kathrine & Sylvia]

June 3: This was a bit of a lost day as it was mostly spent dozing on Pumba and waving to the super friendly locals on our way to Coffee Bay. The unfortunate event of my escaping phone led to me having to beg a local with 200 ZAR to drive me back to the "scenic" spot where I was convinced my phone fell out of my pocket. I was SUPER lucky that it was actually still there! Thanks to Chris for helping me out in the recovery of my "security blanket."


[Ellis patriotically sleeping; local school children; Coffee Bay scenic stop, and where my bberry disappeared]

June 4: I woke to Amy coaxing me into a run. My fears of a treacherous adventure were proven valid as we struggled to find a level path up and down hills all while avoiding cows and multiple unidentifiable animal droppings and keeping an eye on "Shirley", the local dog (whose name we did not know) who ran with us hiding between us while other dogs barked at us. We ended on a killer hill of which I ended up walking the last quarter distance.

We spent the day at the Hole in the Wall beach and in the water jumping from the rocks. Awesome views!


[Hole in the wall; close up showing ledge where we jumped off into the wave shooting out the hole; playing frisbee with the local kids; gorge in the rocks; hill that Derek & I climbed up; me at top of hill (2 of the local dogs escorted us along with Aaron, a local kid/guide]

Amy and I went on a mission for a ball and local kids joined us during our feeble attempt at volleyball, then soccer. The game ended when the older kids and some visiting South Africans took over. Rob ended up the only non-local on the pitch, and was easy to spot among the 36 black locals. Great stuff!

[playing beach volleyball & soccer w/the locals...they took to the soccer more readily]

The evening brought with it some scandal as the Durban boys came to visit and some headed to the bar as a stragler with vomit breath came loitering, let's just call him Santa. We safely steered him to the bar and unloaded him on his buddies. Games of pool and more drinking was good fun for all, or so I imagine as a couple of splinter groups disappeared at one point not to be seen until later or even the next morning.

June 5: Up at 5:30am to catch the sunrise, which actually occurred about an hour and a half later than we were told. Sleep is overrated anyway!

[Spectacular sunrise in Coffee Bay]

Long day on the road, and we arrived in East London at the Xosha Village a tad late and it was cold, but 90 year old Mama Tofu's humor provided for a very entertaining tour and education on the tribal traditions. The dancing was great, and continued through dinner, which was great, lots to eat for the vegetarians, and our the bar was dirt cheap.


[Sights along the way: dolphins; huts (no plumbing/electricity; Xhosa village; kraal (men only allowed or women born in the tribe, a location where respect is paid to ancestors & where business is discussed); Debra in the bar]

The girls slept in the hut where they learn many things from the older woman regarding sex and relationships. Guess I shouldn't be surprised by the male dominated culture where the woman has to care for the babies on their own while tending to their husbands as well. I suppose that's one argument FOR polygamy, eh?

June 6: Morning sunrise then back on Pumba for about a 7 hour ride to Addo Elephant National Park, where we didn't see a ton of elephants, and were starting to think it was Addo THE Elephant National Park. We did see kudus like they were impalas in Kruger, and finally we encountered 2 elephants engaged in foreplay.


[Suicidal kudu running in front of Pumba; the infamous ostrich egg for which Paco had to be consoled after not being allowed to go outside and collect it; frisky elephants]

Later that evening, I joined Amy and Debra for about 13 minutes of a hilly and dark run. The evening produced some interesting events, including 2 tents being swapped without any claim to the prank...hmmm.

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