World Cup (June 24-27)

June 24: The match that put us through top of our group was so intense and exhausting, that it was catching up with us giving us an excuse to get a late start to the day. We went in to Sandton City, Nelson Mandela Square to pick up our Round of 16 tickets for RUSTENBURG! Yes, finishing #1 in the group took a lot of English supporters by surprise, giving many cause to stop me in my USA jacket asking if I needed tickets for the match at Royal Bafokeng Stadium. After meeting with Rich & Marc around the corner (who also collected their tickets in the midst of many presumptuous and disappointed English supporters trying to rid themselves of tickets).

Being a nice day, we decided to try and catch the Italy-Slovakia match at Innesfree Park Fan Fest...with luck, Marc was wearing his knee brace providing us a valid argument for using the Handicap/VIP parking lot (which incidentally, was still a good 10 minute "healthy" walk to the fest). I was surprised to find that many of the vendors were located outside the view of the big screen, making them much less accessible to possible customers than I'm sure they'd have liked. It might be worth noting here that the temperatures during the day, in the sun, were quite comfortable, but once the sun set, it was uncomfortably cold (30-40s). Unfortunately, I hadn't planned on being out all day, and didn't have appropriate layers. It was worth it, however, to see the defending world champions collapse to the Slovakians, and landing dead last in their group.

[Innesfree Park Fan Fest...hopping crowd!]

June 25: Another late start as I was starting to feel sick and of course we needed to re-charge before the oncoming Round of 16 match v Ghana. Molly and I walked to another mall nearby our Hyde Park guest house. After getting some meds, we had a nice lunch where we were noted as having "funny accents" by the restaurant manager. It was then that I swallowed my pride and entered the craft market and bought 2 vuvuzelas, yes, special gift requests, and trust me, I wasn't proud it.

We walked to Melrose Arch in an attempt to find some souvenir t-shirts, but rather ended up in a wine bar (me with my rock shandy, which was NOT OJ & lemonade that I was used to, but instead ginger ale, soda and bitters, a rather yummy concoction for my ailing condition). It was here that we met some, self-proclaimed, very influential black businessmen. They were quite interesting to speak with, some from Joburg, others Nigeria. Molly and I tried, unsuccessfully, to sweet talk the one guy who claimed to have Argentina-Mexico tickets. He obviously didn't succumb to our American charm.

[Local ad]

That night I was still sick, so I passed on a local club experience. Just as well, I didn't have the proper clothes (namely clean ones) for the outing anyhow.

June 26: Today is the big day...USA vs Ghana! The rematch from 2006! Our new friend, Derrik, collected Molly and me about 9am and we were on our way to visit Sun City before the match. We discovered we needed to pay a day fee to enter the "Lost City", so we passed and sat down for lunch instead, where Derrik won enough money on his smoke break to pick up the tab. Thanks, Derrik! After which we all three tried our luck in the casino...to no success, but no great loss either.


[SunCity sign; pre-entrance to Lost City, at least we got to experience the earthquake on the bridge; Smoking Casino where Derrik got lucky!]

Pre-match was hosted by Lucky's...located within a blocked off part of town, which to get to required sweet-talking the gracious police officer. This was also a butcher, where you could purchase your meat, and cook it on the braai (Afrikaans for barbecue/roast). This pre-party was host to more non-Americans than the previous parties, not to say they were Ghanians, more that they were South Africans, other Africans not still in the World Cup, and/or bitter English supporters that weren't able to sell or trade their tickets. Nevertheless, and despite the obnoxious vuvuzelas and lack of vodka, it was a fun party. I even ran into Jeff, (aka Captain America) a guy I played with in an indoor tourney in NYC just before leaving for SA! Small World!


[pre-game rally at Lucky's hosts a braai; supporters were very mixed, not as strong a US following as in previous matches; me with Captain America (Jeff)]

The game atmosphere was no where near the US support we'd experienced previously. There were many more vuvuzelas (Americans don't really like them, but Africans can't live without them). It was painful to see the US give up yet another early goal. After pulling one back, and sending the game to OT, we thought we still had a chance. Why weren't they playing with the heart they played in the last 2 matches, is a mystery...perhaps just exhausted. OT proved to be Ghana's opportunity to take the lead, that the US finally gave in to. It was a sad day, but oh how proud of the US team I was after fighting so hard to make it that far. There's always Brazil! :)


[Me with Amy Gura; National Anthem; Huddle]

June 27: Bit of a sad day, let down from the match the night before. Molly treated herself and me to a super sweet and decadent hotel room right in the heart of Melrose Arch. We met Derrik later that day to watch Germany eliminate the English with little effort. Perhaps the English have a point about the no-goal, but if the US can overcome poor refereeing calls, so should the English be able to rebound. It seemed that they just gave up.

We grabbed a bite to eat in a pizzeria, where we were aurally harassed by some Brazilians with a vuvuzela and chanting throughout the meal. Glad to have left, and turned in early while watching Argentina stuff Mexico, the final score to be discovered in the morning as we were so exhausted.

June 28: D(eparture)-day...I got some more meds as my cold was getting worse, then we headed to the airport where I got a last minute gift for mum, and the adventure is over. But is it, as I board the plane, I meet Thom Meredith (whom I worked with at the WUSA), and he informed me that the US players are on the plane. What luck, and what an amazing close to my amazing experience! I got to meet Gooch, Jozy, Beasely, Findley, Dempsey, Coach Bob Bradley and son Michael. How lucky could I be?! Best WC trip ever!

[Gooch & Findley]

[Michael & Bob Bradley; Beasley & Jozy]

World Cup (June 17-23)

June 18: So, the attempt to take mass transit (from Nelson Mandela Square), failed once again, as Amy and I joined 3 other Americans in sharing a cab to Ellis Park for 50 ZAR a head. It wasn't ideal, with Amy having to duck every time we drove by a cop, which incidentally have been quite prevalent throughout the tournament. We walked a bit if distance from the taxi drop, and ended up in the California Bar and Restaurant just outside the stadium, where the crowd were predominantly American, or fellow supporters. It was here that I remembered I had face paint and Amy and I proceeded to create arts of work on each other. Upon seeing the detail and skill, the crowds lined up to have their faces painted too.

[Face painting at California Bar & Restaurant near Ellis Park]

It was obvious when at the stadium that the Americans were the majority of the crowd. There was so much pride and joy for the "Stars and Stripes" (the apparent nickname for the US national team, unknown to even most die-hard fans).

[US fans; US National Anthem; huddle]

The game didn't start well, as most of us know, with the Slovenians scoring in the 13th minute and worse, in the 42nd minute to go in 2 up at halftime. Oh, hey, Clinton was at the game!

The second half proved hopeful for the American side, with the lead cut in half by Donovan's goal just 3 minutes into the second half. After a second and equalizing goal, the Americans were full of hope. Then, a miracle in the 86th minute when Edu produced a third and potentially winning goal, or so we thought...the referee disallowed it for still unknown reasons (referee was then "left off the list" for any Group C matches and possibly even for the remainder of the tournament). It was a spectacular come back, Ayoba!

[Donovan, our hero!]

A relieved, hopeful yet also heartbroken crowd left Ellis Park Stadium that night, knowing we now had to beat Algeria to ensure our advancement, regardless of the England-Algeria result later that night.

While I still consider the USA-Italy draw in Kaiserslautern, Germany 2006 the most intense and stressful match I've ever attended, this was a very close rival! I even have the war wounds from jumping up and down banging my legs against the seats to prove it!

[Dedicated fan injuries]

Later that night, we ran into our good friend Rob from the GAP Tour, and went to watch the oh-so-boring England-Algeria match, which resulted 0-0, couldn't have been a better result for the US!

[Rob, Amy, me & AJ]

June 19: On this day, my travel buddies all parted ways. While Molly headed to Cape Town to explore, Amy departed for Kenya to meet her mom for safari. So long, World Cup travel buddies! Me, well I met my friend Marc in a Fourways local restaurant for the Springbok v Italy rugby match. The locals were very welcoming and patient in teaching is the rules, in an accelerated course. After which, we headed to Heartbeespoort Dam, my home for the next several nights where I met the other 5 housemates (John, Carolyn, Rich, Adrian and Leslie). The night was spent decompressing from the big game the night before and the big city, Jozi.

June 20: My new friends were kind enough to book a quad game drive. It was awesome, we were about 30 yards from giraffes, kudu, zebras, wildebeests, impala, etc. Awesome trek, and my first time driving my own quad (was only a passenger in Galapagos).
[With the group; on our quads; giraffes so close!; riding by zebras; conquering a steep rock successfully; posing; AFTER riding]

This day brought with it an incredible upset that was the draw between the defending world champions and the lowest ranked team in the tournament. Well played, New Zealand, you deserved the result!

June 21: Today was a day for relaxing and recharging as the group ventured to the Cradle of Humankind. I took a lovely nap in the warm sun by the pool? Maybe more of an overgrown hot tub, sans heat and bubbles.

That night we attempted, but we're unsuccessful in acquiring Spain-Honduras tickets. This was the first time we found more ticket seekers than sellers at any match.

Instead, we watched the game from the warm California Bar and Restaurant with many other unsuccessful ticket buyers. I ran into Evan from Boston again (who will likely meet Amy again in Rwanda), met a cute German from Munich, and a lovely Uruguayan journalist, Mercedes, living in Pretoria all of whom made for a unique and entertaining game watching experience.

After the match, we hit the local KFC (which are more prevalent than the golden arches) for dinner where they offered a number of interestingly named options. [photos] It was here that a Honduran fan gifted me his scarf, and a local woman warned me about a potential pick pocket. I love South Africans and World Cup fans!

[KFC menu (note: prices in ZAR, divide by about 7.5 to get USD)]

June 22: As I had already seen the Cheetahs with my GAP Tour, I passed on the park entrance, and just hung outside the De Wildt Cheetah Research Centre admiring the beautiful animals that were within eye shot. I was even lucky enough to receive a call from my mommy while I was chilling with the cheetahs.

[More cheetahs!]

We then headed to a local Irish Pub (yes, they are everywhere!), O’Hagans for the South Africa-France match, and oh how glorious it was to see France check out of the World Cup in a loss to the most gracious hosts, only to fly home coach.

The late match found us in a very cold medieval times style bar, which prompted us to find another location for the second half, only to be engulfed in smoke (ok, this is the first time I’ve missed New York, well, it’s smoking laws at least, since I left).

June 23: The BIG day, the day of reckoning. Stress and excitement was felt by all US supporters meeting in Pretoria at Homebaze in Eastwood Village. The patriotism rivals anything I’ve ever seen at any World Cup!

[Game day breakfast; pre-game rally Marc & friends; pre-game rally me, Derrik & Molly]

For better or worse, Loftus Versfeld Stadium in Pretoria provided more security than previous games, actually checking our bags as we walked through working metal detectors. This and poor or antiquated stadium architecture delayed our arrival to our seats just a few minutes before the players exited the tunnel. What an atmosphere, and fortunately, most fellow Americans seem to hate the vuvuzelas as much as I do!

[Stadium; National Anthem; huddle; Bill Clinton]

The game started with an early shot on Howard, thankfully catching the upright rather than the net. Several other chances at both ends provided nail biting entertainment. The disallowed goal in the 20 some odd minute of the game was quite the disappointment . This was later to be said that it was NOT offside, however I’ve seen it and from an inconclusive angle, and it did seem the right call, but even if it wasn’t, the linesman didn’t have benefit of replay in his favor, so I don’t think it’s as controversial as many claim. Although someone noted that the US has had more goals disallowed than England has scored in the World Cup, which is a pretty funny statistic.

The tension built as Dempsey and Jozy both missed sitters throughout the play. The second half found more aggressive play by the Algerians, naturally thinking they too had a shot at advancing. The US fans would try and rally the team after a sure shot went over the bar, chants were tentative, yet encouraging...not quite giving up, the US side kept up the pressure. After one of Howard’s classic saves in the 91st minute, he sent Donovan on the run, hitting Jozy for a cross to Dempsey only to have the Algerian keeper stop it, luckily to be rebounded by Donovan who finally placed it in the back of the net. The crowd was elated, it was more than spectacular, there are not enough descriptive words to accurately detail the moment of elation. Everyone was hugging and high-fiving everyone next to them, it was unbelievable! A fairy tale ending to the group round for the Stars & Stripes as they claim the top spot! AYOBA!!!
[Celebrating after the game]

As we walked out, we were high-fiving fellow US fans, one of which was graphic enough to admit to us he “pooped his pants three times” during the match! It was quite the experience while thanking the Algerian fans for a great and well fought game, to which they were very gracious wishing us luck.

Back in Sandton, Melrose Arch to be exact, we had a well needed hearty steak meal at The Meat Company. Fantastic food and all while watching the first half of Ghana-Germany. After the long day of fun and excitement, we actually were in bed before the result of said match, only to find out the next morning that our opponent will be a rematch from 2006 with Ghana! Bring it on! Ke Nako!!!

World Cup (June 15-17)

June 15: This was the coldest day in South Africa since my arrival. It was windy and barely above freezing, which I was entirely unprepared for with my fleece, USA jacket and only a rain shell to warm me. We met Amy's friends,(Carlos, Sarah, Jeff & Sara) for a day at the Apartheid Museum before heading off to the Brazil v. N. Korea match at Ellis Park. The museum was fantastic, and unfortunately many of us didn't budget our time well, as I spent more time in the Nelson Mandela temporary exhibit than I should have, but what an incredible man, with more accomplishments than one person should have in a human lifetime!

After a snack and later a drink at the Gold Reef Casino, 4 of us headed for the park & ride buses on our way to Ellis Park to meet Jeff's friends to pick up our tickets. It was bitter cold, and unfortunately, these "friends" weren't too concerned with the fact that we waited at least an hour or more to collect the tickets. In the meantime, we hung out in Annie's Kitchen with some security staff, then snuck in the gate (for the second time in that stadium alone, we were not screened for weapons). While we waited in the freezing conditions, we witnessed several power outages in the stadium...wondering how the match will go on if only on aux power. TIA.

[Brazil v. North Korea, Ellis Park]

Concession lines were extreme, so we entered without any hot drinks, or beer. After settling in our 2nd to last row seats (thankfully slightly blocked from the icy, windy conditions), we enjoyed what we considered the best match of the WC to date. The North Koreans really stepped up and made Brazil work hard for the 3 points. Not the blow out you'd expect by the Samba Boys holding them to a 1 goal win!

June 16: We decided to take a day off from attending soccer matches, and rented a car to visit the Cradle of Human Kind (the source of many archaeological findings explaining human history and evolution). Yet another amazing museum, well done South Africa! This is a great museum for families too as there are many interactive displays for adults and children alike.

[Cradle of Humankind, Guateng Province]

After the museum, we headed to Melville to settle in for some food and catch the final moments of the late afternoon Spain v Switzerland match, and what an upset as the Swiss stunned Spain 1-0. We then headed over to a sports bar to watch the South Africa v Uruguay match, and what an excruciating disappointment with Uruguay stuffing Bafana Bafana by 3 goals.

June 17: On a last minute decision, we decided to head into Soccer City to attempt acquisition of Argentina-South Korea match tickets. Could we be as lucky as the Dutch-Danes game in getting $20 tickets? Well, upon arriving only 15 minutes before match time due to extreme traffic conditions, we had several options, and had we waited for the kickoff, I’m sure we could have gotten a better deal, as it was, we got Cat 1 tickets for half off, and ended up in the 6th row of section 122, which put us close enough to hear the sound of the ball being kicked. [photos forthcoming]. The energy in the stadium was, predictably, all for Argentina. This match rivalled Bra-DPR in its excitement, but sadly, the scoreline was not reflective of the hard fight the Koreans put up.



[Argentina v. South Korea; Tevez; Messi]

Back in Sandton (Nelson Mandela Square), we had a delicious pizza and some sort of cheese cigar, and watched as the Greeks steamrolled the Nigerians, an unfortunate exit for the Africans. Exhausted, we headed home and watched the oh-so-boring match that was France’s exiting bow to the Mexicans...the one time you’d catch me supporting Mexico, is when they play those cheating bastards! Bien hecho, El Tri!

[Nelson Mandela Square]

Stay tuned for updates on the good ole USA in Friday’s match! USA USA USA!

World Cup 2010! (June 12-14)

June 12: We rose to a gorgeous and tasty breakfast from our chef, Willard. After which, we headed into Sandton City to arrange transport to Rustenburg for the big USA v England match. This proved more challenging than previous World Cups as the mass public transportation infrastructure is hugely lacking. We had quotes anywhere from 500-3000 ZAR (approx $70-430 US).

Once we found the Inter City bus for 240 ZAR (about$30 US), it still took close to an hour to actually get tickets in hand as the woman seemed to be on her own with many requests and redundant work to complete), ergo the popular expression: TIA (this is Africa).

[Eager fans waiting to board the bus to Rustenburg]

We had a little time to take care of some biz online and grab a bite and a beer before we had to queue up for the bus, which ended up in 2 buses which held about 80 passengers, snuggly, for what we were told was a 2-2.5 hour drive which ended up being 3.75 hours, and that's with the police escort we got into the stadium.

The atmosphere on the bus was initially leaning English support, and this was when I realized how painfully lacking in soccer chants the US is. As the time passed, and bladders filled, they became silent, until the bus driver granted their desperate cry for a stop [photo] about 2 hours in (unbeknownst to all, we still had almost 2 hours left to go). There was an incident when someone attempted to discard some liquid waste out the window, only for it to boomerang back through a rear window causing some valid anger to rise from the USA boys in the back.

[the long over due and almost too late pit stop]

The buzz at Royal Bofokeng Stadium was unreal! The stadium is small intimate, however incomplete as the big screens, scoreboard and clock were not yet operational. The support for both sides was tremendous! Amy and I were in section 210, right at the edge of the giant American flag would show itself on a few occasions.

[Stadium atmosphere; pre-game warm-up]

Being in the US supporters section lent to some fun and some lude cheers, but all at a deafening pitch. So much so, the vuvuzelas couldn't compete. The crowd was silenced early on, in the 4th minute to be exact, when Gerrard struck for the game's first goal.

Spirits weren't dampened, however the chants got a bit uglier as time passed. The game was very exciting, and didn't give US a chance to sit down the entire time. It was an incredible experience, and well deserved result!

[semi-functioning scoreboard; USA players thank fans]

The bus ride home was much more subdued than the ride up, in fact, most of us were comatose the entire ride.

June 13: Sunday's games were viewed from the Montecasino, at 50 Rand, or about $7, hat, drink and sketchy hot dog included. After Slovenia took the 3 points from Algeria putting them first in our group, we saw full Ghana support for their 1-0 win over Serbia.

[Montecasino Fan Fest; our Nigerian friends]

Later that evening, we settled into what we thought was a quiet wine bar with TVs, only to meet several World Cup goers that seemed to have been celebrating since the first match. It was like the United Nations with Americans, South Africans, Nigerians, South Africans living in Switzerland, etc. Man, I love how World Cup brings the world together!

June 14: 945am headed out to Soccer City to try to score Ned-Den tickets, and after the taxi driver argued with the police about dropping us off, he told us our 300 ZAR trip was 500+ (on the meter, which was conveniently tucked under his dash, and out of sight), what!? For the sake of peace, we agreed on 400 ZAR. Thankfully, each of us was able to buy tickets from locals for only 150 ZAR (~$20) each. Let me clarify this extreme bargain, that's 1/4 of what we paid FIFA for our tickets to the USA matches, and roughly the same category! Not to be overlooked, there were foreigners charging 300 Euro for Cat 1 tix. Bastards!


[Soccer City; Holland v Denmark, Soccer City, Joburg; Vuvuzelas]

Inside Soccer City was deafening, fortunately I remembered my earplugs this time, and wore them the entire game, which to be honest, really changes the mood, but despite that and the boring match, I can't complain, it was only 20 bucks! I would have spent more on souvenirs had they wanted my money, the shops only accept Visa, as does the ATM machine, what a shame.

[Amy and me with my earplugs]